Nigel Slater recently criticised the term foodie. I like his quote that food should be “something
to be quietly enjoyed rather than put on a pedestal. (The very notion of
someone being a “foodie” makes me shudder.)”
When I named my blog, I’d like to think that I was being
slightly ironic. I'm certainly not
someone who has ever been particularly snobbish about food; merely I delight
(to a slightly excessive degree) in eating, cooking, writing about and reading
about the subject. The idea of making it
into a fetish, is, I agree, shudder inducing.
But unfortunately for me, you can’t run after everyone who happens
across your blog and explain that the term was meant humorously. Sadly, I will now never have Nigel Slater as
a fan.
This is a very roundabout introduction to what is actually
the simplest of things – lunch. In
particular, lunch at a chain restaurant.
One of those chain restaurants that tends to set up shop in city centres
and out of town shopping parks near the multiplex cinema. About as far away from fayne dayning as it is
possible to be. And yet, and yet. As long as you’re not going to get all
snobbish about it and enjoy it for what it is, a perfectly nice place to enjoy
a perfectly nice meal.
I don’t recall ever being to a Bella Italia before. Based on my experience at the York Clifton
Moor branch on Saturday, I would certainly pop in there for a bite to eat
before catching an early evening film.
Chain restaurants have their place, especially when they are delivering
good quality food for decent value. I
suppose my one issue with them comes when they start to choke out the great little independent places who have the capacity (and, indeed, the freedom) to be a bit more creative. But that, in part, is down to the diner who
doesn't want to step outside their comfort zone.
So, to lunch. It was
Saturday, and busy and buzzy but our lovely server Louise was completely
unflappable and charming in the face of the rush. And, yes, I enjoyed the food. And yes, I know it was lunchtime, but we did
share a bottle of the house red (for research purposes) and it was very
pleasant for £14.
I started with one of the specials, ‘nduja spirale –
breadsticks stuffed with mozzarella and my beloved spicy salami. I was really excited to see ‘nduja on the
menu (I believe I've mentioned that it is my current obsession) and hope it introduces it
to a wider audience. This dish was like
an upper class stuffed crust that had got so far above its station as to detach
itself from the pizza - yum. D had
gamberi, or prawns, with garlic and chilli – great, fat, juicy nuggets which he
pronounced very good (and he’s a man who knows his crustacea).
Prawns! |
Stuffed crusts! |
For a main course, I put my WW head on and ordered a pizza Vita – which, at under 600 calories (roughly 15pps) was one of the more diet
friendly options (all dishes less than 600 and 300 calories are flagged up on
the menu). The base was wholemeal,
giving it a distinctly nutty taste and a more prominent role in the proceedings than usual which I actually liked. The quality of the topping was good – the slices of Speck ham, in particular,
were lovely and overall I enjoyed it
although I think “pizza” is a slight misnomer.
D had a pizza proper which was thin and crisp of base and generous of
toppings. He appeared to like it
although in terms of the logistics of eating he would have preferred a larger
plate and a pizza wheel (as opposed to a
steak knife). First world problems
indeed.
Pizza! |
Not pizza! |
In order to provide a completely comprehensive view we also ate
pudding although we were both rather full at this point. Still, that’s what the separate pudding
stomach is for, isn't it? The selection
of pudding “shots” was a really nice idea (and again, at under 300
calories each, a good option for the dieter who wants something sweet without
blowing too many points on a huge portion) – we opted for pannacotta, tiramisu
mousse and the chocolate amaretto pot between us. D thought the chocolate was too sweet (I liked it) but
praised the sharp morello cherry coulis on the pannacotta and took to mixing
the two to cut through the chocolate.
Pudding! |
Elsewhere, judging by the constant stream of contented,
sticky young children, the gelato cart was doing roaring trade – I thought that
was another lovely touch. Although I
still don’t understand the difference between gelato and ice cream.
So what is our summary here?
In short, if you call yourself a foodie but in reality you are just
slightly greedy and don’t want to get caught up in the politics of it all, then
you would have a thoroughly nice meal in a Bella Italia restaurant. And it is was really good to see from the
menu that the chain are starting to think about provenance and regionality:
such things that may be buzzwords but they are concepts that ultimately
contribute to a higher standard of food across the board.
Map of Italy! |
If you’re trying to lose weight but still
want to go out, then the low calorie flags on the menu are good signposts to
guide your choices. If you want to get
young children used to eating out then this sort of place (relaxed atmosphere,
lovely, friendly staff, child friendly gelato carts) is ideal. If you just want to grab something quick, tasty and decently priced before you go and drool over Daniel Craig, this fits the bill. That’s a lot of boxes ticked.
Disclaimer: I was
invited to eat at Bella Italia and the meal was complementary. However, my blog is my kingdom etc. and all
opinions expressed are honest and, along with all spelling and
grammatical errors, indisputably my own.
I haven't been there for at least a decade but it sounds as if it's improved considerably.
ReplyDeletePS I have no problems with the word 'foodie' as a useful shorthand. Sorry Nige.
Px
I once had a rather nasty experience in Bella Italia in Durham but that was 10 years ago! I haven't been back since!
ReplyDeleteHowever, like Nigel Slater I don't like the term Foodie, I simply enjoy food, cooking and eating and I am definitely not a snob either, I would love to be able to afford to eat in Michelin starred restaurants but sadly that's a bit beyond my means!! I'm happy with burger joints and Pizza Express (especially when I have a Tesco Voucher!) There's also a fried chicken restaurant on Holloway Road that I really want to try!!
I'm not really sure what I'm trying to say! Just expressing solidarity I guess!