The world opens...Foodie in Paris

I celebrated a big birthday during the first December of the pandemic. One of those big ones that end with a zero and mean, unless you're a better man than me, you feel like spending the day in bed drinking wine and weeping at the passing of time and general futility of existence. It was not a good time to celebrate a birthday although I have to say that my lovely husband and Mum and Dad pulled out a number of stops to make sure that the day was well marked. Still, we had originally planned to celebrate with a trip to Paris. And D was determined to make sure that we made it, even if a bit late. So it was, he colluded with the parentals, and arranged a surprise trip to take place in late January 22. When it came to it, it was a close run thing as to whether or not we'd be able to go given that the French borders didn't open until a couple of weeks before, but go we did and, just like that, the world (or, rather, my world) seemed to be a little more open again.

The Eiffel Tower...as seen from the Pont des Arts

I adore Paris and think it lays claim to being the most beautiful city in the world (although I am easily swayed). And, it goes without saying, that if you enjoy good food and wine it is an absolute embarrassment of riches - although always worth doing your research since, as with every major city, it is easy to fall into over priced and underwhelming tourist traps. D takes his holiday research very seriously, and we had a detailed itinerary which mainly consisted of restaurants and places to buy food.

Of the four main meals, we had one disappointment. Benoit, a one Michelin starred outpost of the Alain Ducasse empire, serves up proper, high end, classical bistro fare, of that there is no doubt. But it is expensive. The wine list is eye watering. And the service was lacking throughout to the extent that after a 90 minute wait, we cancelled desserts and demanded the bill (and had to do so three times before the message got through). Perhaps we caught them on a bad night (although we clocked that the tables around us did not seem to be having any issues) but we won't be returning. There are plenty other of places to visit.

Like Frenchie, which I think was probably my favourite new find of the trip and one I would urge you to seek out if you find yourself there. It's tiny - maybe twenty or so covers crammed into a limited space - and, historically, quite difficult to book. It's one of those places where you get what you're given but, as soon as the first dishes arrive, you don't care because you know you're in the safest of safe hands. 

We weren't even given a copy of the menu at the end, so I have to rely on my phone notes which mainly consist of exclamation marks and yummy words. I do know that our top dish was one of butternut squash gnocchi, sitting on a butternut squash puree and topped with a crisp crumb and a lardo emulsion. There were plenty of familiar flavours - squash, bacon, sage, garlic but it was the contrast of textures that really made the dish. The gnocchi had, I think, been pan fried after steaming so that, while soft and yielding in the middle, were almost toffee like on the outside. There was crunch and velvet, all in one mouthful. A really fine example of modern cooking, with a seasonal vegetable taking centre stage.

Squash!

The dessert also made for a very happy pair of gluttons - peanut sable, chocolate ganache, cocoa crisps, peanut ice cream and a touch of salted caramel. Yes, it was a high end Snickers. But again, it was the playfully contrasting textures that really elevated this classic combinations of flavours. We ate it mostly in silence and then D, surveying his empty plate, declared that a chocolate and peanut dessert is probably his favourite sort of dessert. Bold words. We seldom commit to favourites in our household.

Chocolate and peanut!

We also revisited a favourite venue from our last trip - the gorgeous Cinq Mars, which is located very close to the Musee D'Orsay, tucked away down a quiet, unassuming street. Another classic bistro but without an offensive price tag. Unfortunately, I can't find the website to link at the moment but a quick Google search will find it. The terrine starter is worth the trip alone (they bring along the serving bowl and allow you to help yourself. Suffice to say that D got through an entire basket of bread taking full advantage of this). 

Terrine!

The service was charming and the wine list comprehensive. It's really the kind of thing you (or rather I) imagine when I close my eyes and think about dining in the fictional Paris where the moon is always full and a plaintive accordion is always playing a few streets away.

Foodie Abroad: Paris

I need to start handwriting accounts of our foodie adventures when (or just after) they occur.  I could buy myself a new notebook for the purpose – few things float my boat like the acquisition of fancy stationery.  The memory of food is a fleeting thing and although it is only a few short weeks since we were in Paris, already some of what I wanted to say to you has drifted away like a snowflake on the breeze, or some such seasonally appropriate simile.

Perhaps, though, what remains is the important stuff, the stuff that I really need to say. 

So.  Firstly a top tip.  If you ever go to Paris, get yourself over to Cinq Mars, a bistro which is all kinds of wonderful.  We read about it on a website – Paris By Mouth, I think, which proved to be an excellent resource.  We picked it partly because it was close to the Musee D’Orsay and we intended to go for supper after we’d had a stiff dose of Culture.  It was one of those happy accidents really, but we have both said that next time we’re in Paris (hopefully it won’t be another ten years) we simply have to go back.  The food was superlative.  We actually noticed that a lot of the people in there with us were English or American – perhaps they had picked up on it from the same website? – but this was no shoddy tourist trap.  It was simple, classic and utterly delicious.  I had lamb with pomme puree and mushrooms and it was one of the tastiest things I think I have eaten all year.  D is still raving about his veal chop with cauliflower cheese.  They give you the serving bowl of chocolate mousse and allow you to help yourself.  What is not to love? 

Wine!

The big treat while we were there was a trip to the three Michelin star Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire.  I have been a bit chary about writing about this, to be honest.  The two things that I now remember particularly about the experience are the bill and the appearance of the food.  It is, I am afraid, impossible not to mention the bill which was the most eye watering that I have ever seen (and I’ve eaten in a lot of expensive restaurants).  The food was utterly beautiful – it was art.  But, funnily enough, in terms of a pleasure to eat, I think I preferred the lamb and mash that I had at Cinq Mars.  I felt that some of the dishes we had at PG were slightly over complicated, that they had one or two components too many.  It’s an experience, certainly, but one I’d be slightly hesitant to recommend - perhaps I’m developing simple tastes in my old age?

Part of this is edible...

As I’ve said, we researched our destinations quite thoroughly before we went because, well, in this day and age, why wouldn’t you?  One lunchtime, we were sitting outside a café in the Montmartre area and a couple approached our waitress and asked where they could go for frogs’ legs.  Google, people, Google!  If you’re going to eat frogs’ legs (I’ve tried them once and it was a frankly underwhelming experience so I wouldn’t bother again) then find out where to go for good frogs’ legs – why leave it to chance or a random waitress who may or may not like them herself?  For example, I said to D that I wanted to eat lots of snails, he went away and found lists of the best places to eat snails in Paris.  Which is how we ended up at Benoit one day and Bouillon Chartier the next.  Both very different takes on a classic Parisienne bistro.  Both did excellent snails drenched in vivid green garlicky herby butter.  Heaven.  Benoit is another place that would definitely warrant a re-visit, Bouillon Chartier is busy and buzzing and the wine was excellent value for money but the food tended towards the cheap and cheerful end of the spectrum.  We were sat on a table with a Canadian couple (it’s not the kind of place to go if you’re anti-social) and they were distinctly unimpressed by the quality of the meat and the pallor of the fries (although I should note here that I enjoyed my steak hache with peppercorn sauce very much.  I’m easy to please.)

Snails!

It was, overall, a wonderful trip to a wonderful city.  I had forgotten how very much I like Paris and much was left undone (which is good as it will, hopefully, encourage us to return before too long).  Perhaps next time, I will manage to be a more assiduous blogger.  I can’t guarantee it though – the thing about food is that I never want to let writing about it get in the way of filling my face with it.