Of course, with a storm hitting the country, a red weather warning in place and wind and rain in abundance, it made perfect sense for us to drive out to the coast and choose to eat our dinner in a beach side shack. Seaside shenanigans in December? Why not!
But we love Riley's and, actually, it was one of the most atmospheric meals I think that I've ever had. The shack itself was full of heaters and blankets so it was entirely possible to be cosy while the waves murmured and crashed out in the dark. And the food here is wonderful; if you find yourself in the North East then I wholeheartedly recommend this as a venue, whatever the weather. The only disadvantage is that you have to walk up an awful lot of steps to get back into town, which is not always easy, especially after you've stuffed yourself silly on glorious seafood.
The star of the show was an unctuous squid ragu. I was initially resistant because it came topped with polenta (I am not a fan) but the waiter (and D) talked me into it, and I am grateful to them because it was utterly delicious. Squid should either be cooked very fast or very slowly, and when done slowly it becomes like velvet. But here it was velvet in a sublimely flavoured, deeply savoury red wine sauce. I need to try and recreate this at home.
But a very close second was my John Dory in Cafe de Paris butter. Beneath the blistered skin, the fish itself was as sweet and tender as a kiss and the incredible butter (which includes all good things such as anchovies and capers) was the perfect accompaniment. I devoured it, despite being rather full.
As usual, we over ordered, but were able to take some bits home with us to enjoy the next day in slightly warmer circumstances, which was a wonderful bonus.
I cannot recommend this venue enough. Yes, on paper it might seem more of a summer jaunt, but I enjoyed our winter sojourn there; it felt oddly otherworldly.
And a postscript - if you do happen to find yourself in Tynemouth then please, whatever you do, make sure you get to Gerald James and buy brownies. They are amazing and you will be forever grateful to me for the recommendation. You're welcome.
King Edward's Bay
Tynemouth
NE30 4BY
Sounds fab!
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