We have been visiting Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point of the British mainland, since 2009 and every year we have made the ferry trip across to Mull. This year we decided to base ourselves on the island itself.
Mull is not a big island. It may well be the second largest of the Inner Hebrides after Skye (thank you, Wiki) but you can still cover it pretty comprehensively in the course of a week. It is, however, an extremely beautiful one and, with a population of less than 3000, vast swathes of it are empty. The landscape is quite stunning – great, rolling, verdant hills stitched through with areas of dense woodland and bright strips of sea appearing on the horizon round every corner. It is rich in wildlife; we treated ourselves to an organised tour and in the course of a single day saw a family of white tailed eagles, a pair of otters and a basking shark – not to mention seals, buzzards and even a horny toad. It is also (and this, of course, may be why it so dear to our hearts) rich in fabulous seafood – fishing being historically one of the island’s main income sources.
|Views of Mull|
|Calgary Art in Nature|
The first, Café Fish, I have written about before. It has been voted the top fish restaurant in the entire country by the Good Food Guide and that is mainly because it sources amazing produce and then cooks it with a sensitive but unerring touch.
|The biggest razor clams you ever did see|
|Langoustines and squat lobsters|
Our new discovery this year was MacGoghan’s, a pub cum restaurant located on the far end of the main street. It is undoubtedly pub food but very, very good – D had a steak with scallops in a creamy paprika sauce. These were not only ingredients of spectacular quality but the dish was also cooked incredibly well. Surf and turf par excellence.
|Tobermory steak: topped with scallops and a creamy paprika sauce|
|Fish, chips and deep fried scallops. With ketchup.|
|A collage of greed...|