After reporting back on a slightly disappointing dinner at Solstice, I thought I should redress the balance - and the pride of the North East - by talking about a couple of AMAZING meals we had this summer. I've been meaning to write this post for a while, and, indeed, several iterations have sat in my Drafts but I just kept forgetting to get them finished off. As such, it has been a while, and the descriptions may be somewhat perfunctory. But, the important thing to know is that these two restaurants are, as far as we are concerned, among the very best that the UK have to offer and we'd be there every week if we could (just one lottery win away...)
First and foremost, it was a re-visit to Restaurant Hjem which is located in a village called Wall. Oh, how I love this place - it was our third trip and it has never disappointed. Actually, Hjem itself closes at the end of the year, but the couple in charge are opening a new place called Freyja next year which is extremely exciting and, you can be sure, we'll be there as soon as we can get to it.
Hjem itself is sort of Scandi in influence, and with the main man being Swedish they know their Scandi. The flavours are delicate and fresh, everything is neat and pretty and despite the plethora of courses, you never leave feeling uncomfortably full because of the extraordinary balance and restraint. We started with a Lindisfarne oyster - ALL good meals should start with a Lindy, the very best of crustacea - and it just got better from there. The chicken liver parfait tartlet was a particular favourite and we had an absolutely fascinating squid dish served with a turmeric broth - turmeric is so seldom allowed to be the star of the show that it was highly unusual to see it shining so brightly here. There was the signature apple and horseradish dessert that we have had on every visit but never fails to disappoint and the most delicious brown butter financiers and oh, so much loveliness.
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Oysters! |
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Squid! |
At the other end of the trip (we stayed in Northumberland for a few days and consumed as much seafood as we possible could throughout) we went to Restaurant Pine. This is somewhere that we've been intending to visit for ages and just never got round to it - criminal really, considering how close it is to us, relatively speaking. I wasn't expecting to love it as much a Hjem but my expectations were confounded - it was remarkable. The flavours here are much, much bolder and brasher and everything is turned up to eleven, such that by the end I felt almost overwhelmed. One of our favourite dishes here was simply described as potato, wild garlic and cucumber which sounds a bit nondescript but it tasted like the kind of garlicky mash that they serve when you arrive in Heaven, and had a cloud like texture to boot. The majority of ingredients here are homegrown and used so intelligently - I defy anyone to try the three month black apple candy (yes, they make it from their own apples and it takes three months to become like the very nicest toffee apple you've ever tasted) and not smile like a loon.
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Potato! |
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Apple! |
It's pointless trying to compare these two places, or pick a favourite, because they're different and truly marvellous in their own particular ways. I suppose the only way to end this post is to say - if you find yourself in this part of the world then both of these (well, Hjem only for a few more months) are really worth a trip and it's a fabulous representation of what this very diverse part of the country has to offer.
Restaurant Hjem
The Hadrian Hotel
Wall
Hexham
NE46 4EE
Restaurant Pine
Vallum Farm
Military Road
East Wallhouses
NE18 0LL