For many years, D and I lived very happily in the beautiful city of York and even though it hasn't been home now for nearly a decade, I still feel my heart squeeze a little in my chest when I go back for a visit. There is something about this ancient city that is utterly timeless; so although when we went last weekend it was the first time we had set foot there for two years, it felt as familiar and comforting as popping down the road. Not that it has been without its changes and casualties - looking more closely at the shopfronts that sit beneath the stone facades we saw that several dear old friends have gone, including the little shop where I bought my wedding ring.
We try not to take it too personally that, since we left, the food scene appears to have improved several fold. It's almost as if they were waiting for us to go. In the recently released Top 100 UK Restaurant Chart, York had no fewer than three entries which is a massive change from back when we were banging the drum for the under appreciated J. Baker's and complaining about the dearth of other options. We still haven't made it to Roots (by Tommy Banks of Black Swan at Oldstead fame) but can confirm that the other two, Skosh and Le Cochon Aveugle are both excellent. And, selflessly doing our bit to support the hospitality industry (how long do you think we can use that excuse??), we made our way over to the latter for lunch.
This comes across as quite a serious restaurant on the website - a blind tasting menu, no substitutions, no children, turn up on time, sit quietly and do as you're told. But don't be concerned; the experience is far more relaxed than this might lead you to believe - with smiley, friendly staff and an elegant-but-not-stuffy dining room.
Yes, you have to eat what you're given with no prior warning, which I know is not for everyone, but you are in good hands here. The influence is broadly French classical but many of the courses are lighter, fresher and draw more from the natural landscape than this might imply. A tomato water, infused with basil and cucumber and drizzled with the most exquisite olive oil was the perfect way to wake up our taste buds at the start of the meal...
...while a scallop ceviche with lemon and seaweed ice and elderflower vinaigrette showed again a real knack for balancing bright, zingy flavours.
At the other end of the spectrum, we fell in love with the boudin noir macarons. The boudin was soft, iron rich and full of spice and contrasted amazingly well with the crisp, sweet macaron. Seriously, these things were good - and we were delighted to learn that they are sold as a bar snack at the restaurant's sister wine bar just down the road.
And the absolute highlight of the savoury courses were these amazing, buttery potato pancakes topped with braised lamb shoulder, black garlic and sheep's' yoghurt. Strictly speaking, this was an adjunct for the lamb and navarin sauce, but packed such a punch that it ended up outshining the main event.
Seasonality is clearly a big driver here, and it was wonderful to see British strawberries pop up on the menu - this vanilla ice cream with fermented strawberry juice and tarragon oil was a turbo-charged take on the classic strawberries and cream...
...While the custardy, caramel sweetness of the accompanying brioche Pain Perdu made for one of the most indulgently pleasing bites of the whole meal.
It's so exciting to be dining out again that it is entirely possible I have lost any critical faculty that once I possessed, or, at least, it is currently severely impaired by the sheer blissful novelty of eating in a restaurant. But I do genuinely think that Le Cochon Aveugle is an absolute little gem of a place. Skosh is, possibly, more on trend, and Roots benefits from a high profile association but LCA is still a little gem that is well worth attention. Hopefully the York food scene will come back from the last eighteen months stronger than ever - which will give us plenty more excuses to pop back.
37 Walmgate
York
YO1 9TX
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