Wednesday 8 April 2020

Molehills in the time of COVID-19

We continue to adjust to life in lockdown.  It’s not the staying indoors that bothers me at all – I am, by nature, a hibernator and quite happy to spend my days pottering around the house.  As long as I have my cat, my books, Netflix et al, I can be quite content.  But this has made me realise how incredibly, desperately spoiled I was with regards to food and shopping.

In my entire adult life, there has pretty much never been a time that I have not been able to get something I want to eat.  All those meal plans where we said: “I fancy aubergine this week!  Dover sole!  Chicken thighs!  Taramsalata!  Scrambled eggs!”  And then, boom.  COVID-19 happens, and food shopping becomes a thing to be feared rather than a quick ten minute sojourn before you get on with the business of whipping up a meal.

I don’t like the modern phrase of “Check your privilege” but it is so applicable here.  I am definitely checking mine.  I took so much for granted and with it, all those people toiling away in the supply chain, probably for minimum wage, to ensure that my every whim was met.

And the privilege continues to a certain extent, because it is a privilege at the moment to be even fretting about something like this but I do think that my anxiety has hooked on the issue of food availability and supply rather than dealing with the bigger, more frightening things happening outside these four walls.

It was eggs that I fixated on at first.  Eggs were in short supply.  We are genuinely trying to go out as little as possible, and certainly avoiding large supermarkets. But the little Sainsbury’s Local that I ventured out to, in that first week, was stripped.  Suddenly, all I could think about was – what if we can’t get any eggs?  What will we do?  I never realised that I was so very fond of eggs or that they formed such a staple part of my diet. We’ve now signed up for a weekly delivery of milk, eggs and butter (from The Modern Milkman if anyone is interested and in the supply area – only two deliveries in but have been extremely impressed with the whole process and the quality of the produce.)

Less pressing, but stll, niggling at me like an itchy cardigan, I began to worry about our supply of beloved Maldon Sea Salt, and the sriracha chilli sauce that we tend to strew with abandon over half our meals.  Ebay, and an online Asian supermarket, have solved these problems for now, although the fact that I have three boxes of salt in my pantry probably means that I am turning into one of those stockpilers that I so despised at the outset of all of this.

Flour and yeast were then the next obsession and I became frankly Gollum-esque protecting my precious jars.  I’ve just been able to order a few bags of plain and bread flour and some fresh yeast (which I can freeze) at Shipton Mill who are, very sensibly, releasing a limited number of delivery slots on a daily basis as and when they become available so that has solved that immediate problem.  I await, resigned, to see what will strike next.

I am genuinely curious to see if this has a long term impact on shopping and eating habits when things revert to normal.  Will we revert away from the current culture of little-and-often-as-whim-dictates more towards a weekly “Big Shop”?  Will we continue to use these small suppliers who have been there for us when we needed them or will we abandon them in favour of supermarket convenience and competetive pricing?

If nothing else, I just hope that I remember to be a little bit more aware of how lucky I am.  And never, not never, take eggs (or salt, condiments and flour) for granted.

2 comments:

  1. I've never been moved to reply to a post in the blog, which I've followed on and off for quite a few years now. Not until now.

    It's interesting what we are all fixated on. Like you, a good supply of sea salt and flour were the main things first off. There's always been plenty of stuff in the freezer and nothing much has changed there. Tesco usually have reduced stuff like fish and chicken, so that's what we eat a lot of. Pretty healthy really. Our local fruit and veg shop shut its retail outlet a couple of years ago to concentrate on their wholesale business. Now they are open 3 hours a day and are doing a roaring trade. Regular customers have come back and we have a good chat in the queue.

    Our boring little Buckinghamshire town (the worldwide euphemism for High Wycombe) has plenty of Polish shops. Little places where you can always buy flour, pasta, eggs even in the darkest moments when chickens stopped laying eggs forever and the weevils had eaten all the world's flour. Well, until we are all out of lockdown, anyway. Flour is fine unless you want posh stuff (which all the rich people in Marlow have bought anyway). You've got plain or self-raising. Poles never liked white flour anyway, except for pastries and they still have fabulous bakeries which churn out the scrummiest apple doughnuts this side of Krakow. Still, cakes are also back on the menu 'cause Mary Berry has a vast mansion nearby. The fancy and unbakeable sponge from GBBO is our cuisine de terroir, as it were. We make decent-enough scones, baps and stotties from the stuff Poland doesn't want, and Wednesday is our day for the regular batch of sad cake. Mum is from east Lancashire, and these things run very deep. We haven't made banana bread 'cause the bananas get eaten, not wasted.

    Medium atta flour (for chapatties) is also a perfect wholemeal flour substitute. Fine semolina makes wonderful succulent yellow bread, and any big supermarket with an in-store bakery will sell you 100-200 g fresh yeast for 30p or so. Yeast mixed with a little flour freezes perfectly well.

    Tesco. Now that gets me onto something else. We have a Tesco, Morrisons and Sainsbury within an easy walk of each other. They all have easy access, all have car parks. Nobody except Sainsbury has a queue to get in. No matter what time of day. For what? They can't all be wanting the in-store pharmacy, and sorry dahlings but the deli counter shut a couple of weeks ago. I look at the queue, grin quietly, and carry on to Tesco where I can get all my shopping (including strong white, organic rye flour and wholemeal on happy occasions). Who said snobbery was dead?

    I suppose the moral is that, if you have the luxury to be able to walk about a bit then pretty much everything is there, and apart from a week or so it always has been. A bit of old-fashioned home economics mixed in, and we're there.

    Stay well and stay safe, and keep on blogging.

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  2. Hi Tim

    Thank you so much for your wonderful words! I'm glad to hear that all is well with you, and a fabulous tip with regards Polish shops (even now, flour remains a rare commodity in the standard stores round here). I never realised that Polish bakeries were worth checking out - it's not something I associate with Poland at all. Although, on reflection, I asked a friend of Polish descent about the cuisine once and all he could come up with was "lots of mushrooms" so there is obviously scope for me to explore this more!

    We have the opposite supermarket situation here in North Leeds - I ventured out the other day and Waitrose was queue free whereas Aldi had one stretching out round the car park! In general, we are trying not to go out as far as possible (not in the shielding category but health conditions in the household make it wiser to avoid risk where we can) but have been absolutely blown away by the way in which small local businesses have stepped up and made wonderful produce available for delivery. In the last few weeks we have had artisan sourdough, cheese, milk, eggs, fruit and vegetables and loads of craft ale dropped off on our front doorstep. It has reminded me of how I need to continue to support these businesses when things start to revert to normal. I'm as guilty as the next person of using supermarkets because it is convenient. But I will try not to forget those smaller providers who have brought such moments of pleasure in difficult times.

    Best wishes to you and yours.

    Sx

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